The Tale of Old Nails
How nails and nail holes can help date a piece of antique furniture
By Fred TaylorWorthPoint Worthologist
This is a piece of 1/8-inch square rolled iron nail stock that was used by a “nailer” to hammer out a handmade nail.
One of the key ingredients in the process of determining the age of a piece of older or antique furniture is how the wood is assembled to produce this functional work of art. Drawers are typically put together using various methods of wood joinery, i.e. dovetails, scallop joints or rabbets. Older case goods generally employ mortise and tenon joints, as do old chairs and doors. But the most straightforward method of all construction techniques is the use of a fastener, an external device that holds two pieces of wood together without additional shaping of the wood and the simplest fastener is a nail—in essence a tapered metal dowel inserted by the brute force of a hammer blow.
Nails, of course, have been around for thousands of years, but their general application to furniture making is fairly recent. Until modern times all nails were hand made, one at a time by a blacksmith or a specialist, called a “nailer.” But since nails are such useful items, not just for furniture but for general building applications, it is not surprising that some of the first modern machinery was devoted to the manufacture of nails.
These are hand-made iron nails from the 18th century. Note the “rosehead” hammered head and the sharp point.
In the American Colonies, one of the early industries to be well established, after glassmaking and spirits distilling, was the nail stock business. Up and down the East coast as early as the late 17th century, rolling mills turned out long, thin, square pieces of iron called nail stock, to be sent to the local nailer.
The nailer then heated a section of the stock and pounded out a point on all four sides. After cutting to length the section was inserted in hole on the anvil called a “swage” block and the head of the nail formed by repeated blows to the top of the nail, giving it the “rosehead” look we identify with hand made nails. A lot of work for just one nail.
But this method had its rewards. The pounding of the nail to shape it made the iron denser and thus more water resistant and durable, as well as malleable (bendable). This malleability was one of the key factors in the success of the handmade nail; it was so flexible that as it was driven into a piece of wood it followed the internal grain pattern, often in an arc, and thus provided a clinching effect that help hold the nailed joint very tightly. The hand-wrought iron rosehead nails leave a very identifiable clue—a square hole—when they are removed from wood. No other type of nail leaves a square hole.
By the early 1800’s, nail cutting machines were in general use in America. These early machines cut angular strips from a thin sheet of metal resulting in a nail with two parallel sides, representing the thickness of the sheet of metal, and two cut angular sides forming the point. The heads still had to be hammered by hand and these nails are easily confused with hand-wrought nails because they both have hand hammered rose-like heads. The difference is in the shape of the hole. The machine made nails leave rectangular holes which are easily distinguished from the square marks of the earliest nails. This type of nail is the kind frequently found in early 19th century Federal and American Empire furniture and just as frequently misidentified as hand wrought.
These nails were all cut from a sheet of iron. The top nail with the “notch” head is from the early 19th century. The middle nail with the rectangular flat head is from around 1830/1840.
Another type of early nail merely had a notch as the head. This wasn’t very effective but it was quick and cheap and machine cut nails became a staple of both the construction industry and the furniture building trade. An even better nail came around 1830. The machines by now were producing nails that actually had flattened protruding surfaces to function as the head. These were made by a single, forceful impact on the top of the nail by the machinery itself and no human work was required. As erratic and small as these new heads were, they were still the best yet.
By the 1840’s, the nail making technology settled down to making the best cut nail yet. This mid-century nail had a large, uniform, machine-made head and it became the standard nail for more than 50 years, and it continued to leave the characteristic rectangular hole. These nails are ones found in late Classicism (C-scroll Empire) and Victorian furniture throughout the rest of the 19th century. As good as these nails were however, they did have a drawback. They did not benefit from the hand pounding reserved for the making of hand wrought nails and thus were more brittle than earlier nails. This stiffness meant that they did not have the same internal clinching power as their predecessors and tended to snap off under duress rather than bend.
This is the standard wire nail first introduced around 1880.
Around 1880 came the next major leap in nail development. A machine was invented that produced a round nail drawn from a piece of steel wire and formed with a perfectly circular, stamped head and a sharp, cut point. This does not mean that all cabinet shops instantly stopped using cut nails when the new style showed up. Cut nails continued to be used early into the 20th century until existing stocks were used up. And hand-wrought nails continued to be made throughout the 19th century for certain specialty applications, such as gate building and other instances where the benefits of the clinching nail outweighed the cost of hand production.
But in the end the round wire nail became the universal standard and still is today. It represents a technology that is still in use and virtually unchanged for more than 100 years; quite a rarity at the beginning of the 21st century.
Even if the nail itself is missing in a piece of furniture, you can sometimes determine its origin by the hole it leaves. Handmade nails leave square holes, cut nails leave rectangular holes and wire nails leave round holes.
Each type of nail leaves its signature hole.
Fred Taylor is a Worthologist who specializes in American furniture from the Late Classicism period (1830-1850).
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This entry was written by Fred Taylor, posted on February 2, 2009 at 1:04 pm, filed under Blog Entry, Furniture, Furniture and Furnishings and tagged American Empire furniture, antique furniture, C-scroll Empire furniture, Classicism furniture, cut nails, Federal style furniture, Fred Taylor, hand-wrought nails, history of nails, nail cutting machines, nailer, nails, rosehead nails, Victorian furniture, Worthpoint. Bookmark the permalink. Follow any comments here with the RSS feed for this post. Post a comment or leave a trackback: Trackback URL.
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Thursday, February 5, 2009
Tuesday, January 27, 2009
How Much Is That Game in the Window?
How Much Is That Game in the Window?
This entry was written by Michael Barnes, posted on January 14, 2009 at 6:20 pm, filed under Editorial, Games and Puzzles, Toys, Dolls, Games and Puzzles and tagged Acquire 3M-edition, board game collectibles, Dark Tower board game, Dungeon board game, hobby gamers, Michael Barnes, Worthpoint. Bookmark the permalink. Follow any comments here with the RSS feed for this post. Post a comment or leave a trackback: Trackback URL.
The first thing I look for when I stroll up someone’s driveway to a yard sale or as I’m rummaging through the detritus of material culture at an antique retailer or thrift store is board games.
Usually, my treasure hunt ends in disappointment as I excavate a ratty, worn-out copy of Trivial Pursuit or an antediluvian edition of Clue with the lead pipe missing. I’m not looking for a board game based on the “Mork & Mindy” TV show, and I’m not in the market for novelty games themed after the fads and trends of decades past—I think I’ll pass on that copy of MC Hammer’s Rap-a-Round, thank you. And no, I don’t particularly care how old that copy of Scrabble is, either.
I am a hobby gamer. I play and write about games, both as a hobby and professionally, and many in the antiques-and-collectibles business might be shocked to hear me say that a lot of the board games I find in their shops are practically worthless to anyone with a serious interest in board games.
3M edition of Acquire
Sure, character-themed games may carry value to certain collectors. Examples of particular rarity or significance might tickle the fancy of someone interested in purchasing a game to stow away in a display case. But the kinds of games other hobby gamers and I are casting the dragnet for are those that we’re actually interested in playing—chiefly nonmainstream strategy games and war games from the 1970s and 1980s. Most of them you’ve probably never heard of, but in the board-gaming community, the arcane might turn out to be the mundane.
Dungeon
There’s no telling how many hobby games have been sold at antiques dealers and secondhand shops for well under their actual value. It was just recently I bought a copy of Dungeon, a 1980 Dungeons and Dragons-style board game, for five bucks at a local antiques shop. The game regularly sells for $50 to $75 in hobby circles and in online auctions.
A friend answered an online classified ad posted by an antiques collector who had gotten his hands on a lot that included several boxes of board games. He was giving them away. My friend picked them up and aside from the almost-condition copy of Dark Tower, an electronic board game from the early 1980s that regularly fetches upward of $200 from hobbyists, the lot included at least $1,000 worth of exceptionally rare war games from classic publishers such as Avalon Hill and SPI. The guy simply thought they were worthless.
Dark Tower
Dark Tower laid out
I have also seen the flip side of the coin where sellers will price older games at outrageous prices seemingly founded solely on the vintage of the item. Last week, I was in a local antiques mall where a dealer had a copy of the 3M-edition of Acquire—a common (but great) game that can be found for around $10 easily. The dealer had it stickered at $60.
Just because a game is old doesn’t mean it is in demand, rare or worth anything to a hobby gamer. Good games do tend to be worth more to players, and that is often reflected in market prices. Of course, finding out what those good games are can be an odyssey into esotericism just as in any other collectibles market.
There is definitely a market for collectible, out-of-print hobby games—I know because I’m part of it. But in order for the uninitiated to assess value properly and to identify trash from treasure, it does require a little research work. A simple survey of online board-games sources and public auction sites might reveal some shockers in terms of value. You may be surprised when that box of games that your nerdy brother used to keep in the closet turns out to be a treasure chest.
WorthPoint—Get the Most from Your Antiques & Collectibles
This entry was written by Michael Barnes, posted on January 14, 2009 at 6:20 pm, filed under Editorial, Games and Puzzles, Toys, Dolls, Games and Puzzles and tagged Acquire 3M-edition, board game collectibles, Dark Tower board game, Dungeon board game, hobby gamers, Michael Barnes, Worthpoint. Bookmark the permalink. Follow any comments here with the RSS feed for this post. Post a comment or leave a trackback: Trackback URL.
The first thing I look for when I stroll up someone’s driveway to a yard sale or as I’m rummaging through the detritus of material culture at an antique retailer or thrift store is board games.
Usually, my treasure hunt ends in disappointment as I excavate a ratty, worn-out copy of Trivial Pursuit or an antediluvian edition of Clue with the lead pipe missing. I’m not looking for a board game based on the “Mork & Mindy” TV show, and I’m not in the market for novelty games themed after the fads and trends of decades past—I think I’ll pass on that copy of MC Hammer’s Rap-a-Round, thank you. And no, I don’t particularly care how old that copy of Scrabble is, either.
I am a hobby gamer. I play and write about games, both as a hobby and professionally, and many in the antiques-and-collectibles business might be shocked to hear me say that a lot of the board games I find in their shops are practically worthless to anyone with a serious interest in board games.
3M edition of Acquire
Sure, character-themed games may carry value to certain collectors. Examples of particular rarity or significance might tickle the fancy of someone interested in purchasing a game to stow away in a display case. But the kinds of games other hobby gamers and I are casting the dragnet for are those that we’re actually interested in playing—chiefly nonmainstream strategy games and war games from the 1970s and 1980s. Most of them you’ve probably never heard of, but in the board-gaming community, the arcane might turn out to be the mundane.
Dungeon
There’s no telling how many hobby games have been sold at antiques dealers and secondhand shops for well under their actual value. It was just recently I bought a copy of Dungeon, a 1980 Dungeons and Dragons-style board game, for five bucks at a local antiques shop. The game regularly sells for $50 to $75 in hobby circles and in online auctions.
A friend answered an online classified ad posted by an antiques collector who had gotten his hands on a lot that included several boxes of board games. He was giving them away. My friend picked them up and aside from the almost-condition copy of Dark Tower, an electronic board game from the early 1980s that regularly fetches upward of $200 from hobbyists, the lot included at least $1,000 worth of exceptionally rare war games from classic publishers such as Avalon Hill and SPI. The guy simply thought they were worthless.
Dark Tower
Dark Tower laid out
I have also seen the flip side of the coin where sellers will price older games at outrageous prices seemingly founded solely on the vintage of the item. Last week, I was in a local antiques mall where a dealer had a copy of the 3M-edition of Acquire—a common (but great) game that can be found for around $10 easily. The dealer had it stickered at $60.
Just because a game is old doesn’t mean it is in demand, rare or worth anything to a hobby gamer. Good games do tend to be worth more to players, and that is often reflected in market prices. Of course, finding out what those good games are can be an odyssey into esotericism just as in any other collectibles market.
There is definitely a market for collectible, out-of-print hobby games—I know because I’m part of it. But in order for the uninitiated to assess value properly and to identify trash from treasure, it does require a little research work. A simple survey of online board-games sources and public auction sites might reveal some shockers in terms of value. You may be surprised when that box of games that your nerdy brother used to keep in the closet turns out to be a treasure chest.
WorthPoint—Get the Most from Your Antiques & Collectibles
Friday, January 16, 2009
Paperdoll Review
Home Page - Comprehensive Coverage in the World of Antiques » News » News stories » Creating a cavalcade of cutouts: Paperdoll Review to release nine new classic star paper doll books
Creating a cavalcade of cutouts: Paperdoll Review to release nine new classic star paper doll books
January 14, 2009
Paperdoll Review, well known for offering one of the widest selections of paper dolls via mail order and its website, www.paperdollreview.com, announced it will release nine new classic star paper doll books under its publishing imprint, Paper Studio Press.Collecting and cutting out paper dolls, a charming childhood pastime in decades gone by, is regaining popularity with collectors and a new generation of children interested in fashion and a more traditional form of play. The new paper dolls from Paper Studio Press recapture the glorious, glamour days of Hollywood’s Golden Age and will delight paper doll enthusiasts of all ages.The classic stars featured as paper doll books include Ginger Rogers, Fred Astaire’s legendary partner; Esther Williams, the movies’ only swimming star; and Jane Powell, the movies’ songbird, all created by top paper doll illustrator, Marilyn Henry. Marilyn also created the currently available paper doll of Marilyn Monroe, perhaps the most iconic star of all time. Other stars getting the paper doll treatment are Betty Hutton, the zany World War II superstar, by Judy M Johnson; and the iconic classics from the silver screen – Greta Garbo, by Norma Lu Meehan, and Marlene Dietrich all designed by renowned fashion expert, David Wolfe. Wolfe will also be creating paper doll books of Phyllis McGuire, lead singer of the sensational sister trio and a fabulous fashionista, and America’s favorite funny lady, Phyllis Diller. Currently available is Wolfe’s paper doll of Marsha Hunt, fashion plate film star of the 1930s and ’40s. Coming in 2009 is a paper doll of Rhonda Fleming, the spectacular flame-haired beauty of ’50s films, illustrated by Norma Lu Meehan.Wolfe is releasing his book, Hollywood Fashions of the ’30s, ’40s and ’50s. And of course, every “princess at heart” will want to get the vintage styled Cinderella with 17th century costumes, by expert illustrator Brenda Sneathen Mattox.“Paperdoll Review is pleased to have had the chance to work with top illustrators and to make a connection with the stars is really wonderful,” said Jenny Taliadoros, owner of Paperdoll Review and Paper Studio Press. “We are just thrilled that we can celebrate the glamour of Old Hollywood with these highly collectible books.”About Paper Studio Press and Paper Doll ReviewPaper Studio Press, www.paperstudiopress.com celebrates the style and glamour of paper dolls at the peak of their popularity during Hollywood’s Golden Era through gorgeous reproductions of highly collectible vintage paper doll books, as well as new titles designed to fit in with the paper dolls of yesterday. Paperdoll Review, www.paperdollreview.com offers paper dolls of all kinds both online and through an extensive mail order catalog. Offerings including reproductions of vintage paper dolls, movie star paper dolls, fashion paper dolls, paper dolls of families, children, historic figures, and more.Click here to discuss this story and more in the AntiqueTrader.com message boards.
Creating a cavalcade of cutouts: Paperdoll Review to release nine new classic star paper doll books
January 14, 2009
Paperdoll Review, well known for offering one of the widest selections of paper dolls via mail order and its website, www.paperdollreview.com, announced it will release nine new classic star paper doll books under its publishing imprint, Paper Studio Press.Collecting and cutting out paper dolls, a charming childhood pastime in decades gone by, is regaining popularity with collectors and a new generation of children interested in fashion and a more traditional form of play. The new paper dolls from Paper Studio Press recapture the glorious, glamour days of Hollywood’s Golden Age and will delight paper doll enthusiasts of all ages.The classic stars featured as paper doll books include Ginger Rogers, Fred Astaire’s legendary partner; Esther Williams, the movies’ only swimming star; and Jane Powell, the movies’ songbird, all created by top paper doll illustrator, Marilyn Henry. Marilyn also created the currently available paper doll of Marilyn Monroe, perhaps the most iconic star of all time. Other stars getting the paper doll treatment are Betty Hutton, the zany World War II superstar, by Judy M Johnson; and the iconic classics from the silver screen – Greta Garbo, by Norma Lu Meehan, and Marlene Dietrich all designed by renowned fashion expert, David Wolfe. Wolfe will also be creating paper doll books of Phyllis McGuire, lead singer of the sensational sister trio and a fabulous fashionista, and America’s favorite funny lady, Phyllis Diller. Currently available is Wolfe’s paper doll of Marsha Hunt, fashion plate film star of the 1930s and ’40s. Coming in 2009 is a paper doll of Rhonda Fleming, the spectacular flame-haired beauty of ’50s films, illustrated by Norma Lu Meehan.Wolfe is releasing his book, Hollywood Fashions of the ’30s, ’40s and ’50s. And of course, every “princess at heart” will want to get the vintage styled Cinderella with 17th century costumes, by expert illustrator Brenda Sneathen Mattox.“Paperdoll Review is pleased to have had the chance to work with top illustrators and to make a connection with the stars is really wonderful,” said Jenny Taliadoros, owner of Paperdoll Review and Paper Studio Press. “We are just thrilled that we can celebrate the glamour of Old Hollywood with these highly collectible books.”About Paper Studio Press and Paper Doll ReviewPaper Studio Press, www.paperstudiopress.com celebrates the style and glamour of paper dolls at the peak of their popularity during Hollywood’s Golden Era through gorgeous reproductions of highly collectible vintage paper doll books, as well as new titles designed to fit in with the paper dolls of yesterday. Paperdoll Review, www.paperdollreview.com offers paper dolls of all kinds both online and through an extensive mail order catalog. Offerings including reproductions of vintage paper dolls, movie star paper dolls, fashion paper dolls, paper dolls of families, children, historic figures, and more.Click here to discuss this story and more in the AntiqueTrader.com message boards.
Wednesday, January 14, 2009
Top Obama Inaugural Collectibles
Top Obama Inaugural Collectibles
Superstar Will Smith got teary.
Emily Malcolm, founder of Emily’s List called it “a proud moment in our nation’s history.”
Great Britain’s Prime Minister Gordon Brown deemed it “inspirational.”
There were reports of millions of joyful people dancing in the streets from Bogotá to Naples to Shanghai to Chicago.
Bushmen in the Kalahari Desert slaughtered cows in honor of the occasion.
The Sun (UK) found one weeping German celebrant who said, “In my lifetime, the world’s people have never felt closer.”
Former South African President Nelson Mandela called the event “monumental.”
It “Unleashes a Flood of Hope Worldwide,” proclaimed a New York Times headline.
Obama’s historic inauguration
This is just a tip of the reaction to Barack Obama’s election as 44th president of the United States. On January 20, this man whose mother was a white woman from Kansas and father a black Kenyan will be sworn into office on the steps of the United States Capitol.
It estimated that anywhere from two to five million people will jam Washington, D.C., to witness history being made as the first African-American takes the presidential oath of office.
And without question, the inauguration will produce a raft of collectibles. The question for collectors is how to tell the difference between items that will only have sentimental or commemorative value and those that will be true historical keepsakes.
Luckily, there is a way to tell the difference.
New York Post day after election
The first rule of collectibles is if there are many of them, their value is reduced. When Barack Obama defeated John McCain, scores of newspapers trumpeted historic headlines, some are still being reprinted and sold as commemoratives. Because there are so many of them, their value will be limited. This will be also true for the scores of inaugural newspaper editions.
Conversely, if there are few items, their collectible value will be higher. Lead-crystal vases featuring an engraved inaugural seal from the best glassmakers in the world, for example, will continue as a long-term investment as a historical and highly prized collectible. The sticker price will reflect that, as well.
If you want a head start on long-term collectibles, buy things with the official seal of the 56th Presidential Inauguration Committee. (Some presidents have served more than one term and therefore, have had more than one inauguration.) These are items officially recognized by the only committee chosen by President-elect Barack Obama to oversee and pay for official inaugural events, such as the inaugural balls. Over time, these items, from specially designed pins by renowned artist Ann Hand to glassware, jewelry, posters and all manner of memorabilia, will be the items most collected, and they all will carry the official seal of the committee in their design.
Glass paperweight
Then there is the Joint Congressional Committee on Inaugural Ceremonies comprised of members from the House of Representatives and the U.S. Senate who are responsible for the swearing-in ceremonies and the congressional luncheon. The official programs for these events, particularly the swearing-in, will have a clear long-term collectible value. In fact, it is safe to say that the programs for this transformational inaugural will be especially valuable over time.
Inaugural mug
There are other official inaugural items that will be highly sought after by collectors, such as the official inaugural badge. Since 1933, the two dozen or so official police units operating within the District of Columbia have issued specially created police badges for use during the inaugural period. The early ones are very rare, while the more recent ones continue to be highly valued. Press credentials, military items, signage, anything out of the ordinary such as the cardboard No Parking signs attached throughout the city are highly collectible long after the event, too.
“In my store, Political Americana, we are fortunate to have all kinds of inaugural souvenirs from a simple button, badge, lapel pin, tote bag, T-shirt and coffee mug to the official inaugural medal and glassware,” says Jim Warlick, owner of Political Americana and WorthPoint Worthologist for political items. “Our full-scale Oval Office will also provide you with the opportunity to have your picture taken behind a replica of the Oval Office desk the new president will use.”
Obama inaugural T-shirt
Mary Brenneman, WorthPoint content director, sees significance in collectibles beyond their collecting value. “I find it fascinating that collectibles can serve as harbingers.”
She points out that Warlick predicted back in the spring of 2008 that Obama would win the election because his collectibles were outselling Hillary Clinton’s and John McCain’s combined.
So be you Democrat or Republican, Libertarian or Independent, now’s the time to look to the future and search out Obama inauguration collectibles.
WorthPoint-Get the Most from Your Antiques & Collectibles
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This entry was written by ThomasCarrier, posted on January 9, 2009 at 2:45 pm, filed under Books, Paper and Magazines, Clothing (Historic), Editorial, Jewelry, Textiles, Clothing and Accessories, Watches & Accessories and tagged inaugural badges, inaugural collectibles, Jim Warlick, Obama collectibles, Obama inaugural collectibles, Political Americana, valuable inaugural collectibles, Worthologist, Worthpoint. Bookmark the permalink. Follow any comments here with the RSS feed for this post. Post a comment or leave a trackback: Trackback URL.
Superstar Will Smith got teary.
Emily Malcolm, founder of Emily’s List called it “a proud moment in our nation’s history.”
Great Britain’s Prime Minister Gordon Brown deemed it “inspirational.”
There were reports of millions of joyful people dancing in the streets from Bogotá to Naples to Shanghai to Chicago.
Bushmen in the Kalahari Desert slaughtered cows in honor of the occasion.
The Sun (UK) found one weeping German celebrant who said, “In my lifetime, the world’s people have never felt closer.”
Former South African President Nelson Mandela called the event “monumental.”
It “Unleashes a Flood of Hope Worldwide,” proclaimed a New York Times headline.
Obama’s historic inauguration
This is just a tip of the reaction to Barack Obama’s election as 44th president of the United States. On January 20, this man whose mother was a white woman from Kansas and father a black Kenyan will be sworn into office on the steps of the United States Capitol.
It estimated that anywhere from two to five million people will jam Washington, D.C., to witness history being made as the first African-American takes the presidential oath of office.
And without question, the inauguration will produce a raft of collectibles. The question for collectors is how to tell the difference between items that will only have sentimental or commemorative value and those that will be true historical keepsakes.
Luckily, there is a way to tell the difference.
New York Post day after election
The first rule of collectibles is if there are many of them, their value is reduced. When Barack Obama defeated John McCain, scores of newspapers trumpeted historic headlines, some are still being reprinted and sold as commemoratives. Because there are so many of them, their value will be limited. This will be also true for the scores of inaugural newspaper editions.
Conversely, if there are few items, their collectible value will be higher. Lead-crystal vases featuring an engraved inaugural seal from the best glassmakers in the world, for example, will continue as a long-term investment as a historical and highly prized collectible. The sticker price will reflect that, as well.
If you want a head start on long-term collectibles, buy things with the official seal of the 56th Presidential Inauguration Committee. (Some presidents have served more than one term and therefore, have had more than one inauguration.) These are items officially recognized by the only committee chosen by President-elect Barack Obama to oversee and pay for official inaugural events, such as the inaugural balls. Over time, these items, from specially designed pins by renowned artist Ann Hand to glassware, jewelry, posters and all manner of memorabilia, will be the items most collected, and they all will carry the official seal of the committee in their design.
Glass paperweight
Then there is the Joint Congressional Committee on Inaugural Ceremonies comprised of members from the House of Representatives and the U.S. Senate who are responsible for the swearing-in ceremonies and the congressional luncheon. The official programs for these events, particularly the swearing-in, will have a clear long-term collectible value. In fact, it is safe to say that the programs for this transformational inaugural will be especially valuable over time.
Inaugural mug
There are other official inaugural items that will be highly sought after by collectors, such as the official inaugural badge. Since 1933, the two dozen or so official police units operating within the District of Columbia have issued specially created police badges for use during the inaugural period. The early ones are very rare, while the more recent ones continue to be highly valued. Press credentials, military items, signage, anything out of the ordinary such as the cardboard No Parking signs attached throughout the city are highly collectible long after the event, too.
“In my store, Political Americana, we are fortunate to have all kinds of inaugural souvenirs from a simple button, badge, lapel pin, tote bag, T-shirt and coffee mug to the official inaugural medal and glassware,” says Jim Warlick, owner of Political Americana and WorthPoint Worthologist for political items. “Our full-scale Oval Office will also provide you with the opportunity to have your picture taken behind a replica of the Oval Office desk the new president will use.”
Obama inaugural T-shirt
Mary Brenneman, WorthPoint content director, sees significance in collectibles beyond their collecting value. “I find it fascinating that collectibles can serve as harbingers.”
She points out that Warlick predicted back in the spring of 2008 that Obama would win the election because his collectibles were outselling Hillary Clinton’s and John McCain’s combined.
So be you Democrat or Republican, Libertarian or Independent, now’s the time to look to the future and search out Obama inauguration collectibles.
WorthPoint-Get the Most from Your Antiques & Collectibles
SHARETHIS.addEntry({ title: "Top Obama Inaugural Collectibles", url: "http://www.worthpoint.com/editorial/top-obama-inaugural-collectibles" });
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This entry was written by ThomasCarrier, posted on January 9, 2009 at 2:45 pm, filed under Books, Paper and Magazines, Clothing (Historic), Editorial, Jewelry, Textiles, Clothing and Accessories, Watches & Accessories and tagged inaugural badges, inaugural collectibles, Jim Warlick, Obama collectibles, Obama inaugural collectibles, Political Americana, valuable inaugural collectibles, Worthologist, Worthpoint. Bookmark the permalink. Follow any comments here with the RSS feed for this post. Post a comment or leave a trackback: Trackback URL.
Wednesday, January 7, 2009
Top 10 New Year's Resolutions
Home Page - Comprehensive Coverage in the World of Antiques » Features » Postcards » Top 10 New Year’s resolutions
Top 10 New Year’s resolutions
December 16, 2008by Don Preziosi
New Year's resolutions are fun to illustrate - and collect - on postcards.
It is that time of the year when people make New Year’s resolutions and publications make all sorts of lists: best, worst, favorites and so on, usually consisting of ten items. Why not combine the two and explore the postcard possibilities of illustrating them? The history of New Year’s resolutions supposedly goes back to 153 B.C. when the Romans named the first month of the year after Janus, the god of beginnings and the guardian of doors and entrances. Janus was always portrayed with two faces, one on the front of his head and one on the back, which enabled him to look backward and forward at the same time. Logically, at midnight on New Year’s Eve, the Romans imagined Janus looking back at the old year and forward to the new. Whether Janus wanted to lose weight and quit smoking is not known!In addition to losing weight and quitting smoking, certain resolutions are on many of the ten favorite resolution lists that I consulted. Quitting drinking, getting out of debt, getting fit, and getting a new job are also perennial favorites. Here’s my somewhat cynical take on ten popular resolutions and postcards of various genres and eras that might be used to illustrate them.1. LOSE WEIGHT: This is the “biggie,” especially since New Year’s Eve is the culmination of the overindulgent holiday season. There is no shortage of postcards showing rather large people that could be used for this resolution. The calorically challenged lady on this Argentinean postcard seems to have somewhat unrealistic expectations. The odds are that she, like most of us, will need to repeat this resolution annually. Time to seriously consider salads, sweetie!2. QUIT SMOKING: One would think by now that all the negative publicity about smoking would have eliminated this as one of the most popular resolutions because fewer and fewer people seem to be smokers. Not so – it is still way up on the list of most common resolutions. So if you’re still smoking, take a look at the billboard on this card! “TOBACCO – The deadly enemy of the human brain. The foe of human progress. The subtle destroyer of youthfull (sic) virtue. The menace of the Christian church. The universal fire hazard.” I could have chosen a postcard I have showing the diseased lung of an ex-smoker (ex as in expired), but I thought I would spare you.3. QUIT DRINKING: As the man at the bar on this 1950s comic postcard advises his fellow imbiber, “It’s easy to quit drinking – I’ve done it hundreds of times!” This is another topic with an abundance of postcard possibilities. The drunk is always good for a laugh. I suspect that if quitting drinking is high on your list and you are like this guy, a good rehab facility and/or Alcoholics Anonymous may have a more lasting effect than the typical resolution. Here’s to your health.4. GET OUT OF DEBT: If you’re like the cowering chap on this circa 1905 comic postcard, the person approaching you with his hand held out is looking for the “green” you owe him, not a greeting. Debt can be debilitating. Low on dough? Start singing. “I owe, I owe, it’s off to work we go.” Maybe resolution number five should be higher on your list.5. GET A NEW JOB: Do you want to end up like the two elderly sisters on this circa 1910 real photo postcard who are folding and boxing Grace-Mae hosiery? During their 54 years of service in this mill they have boxed and folded 71,280,000 pairs of stockings. If not, check out resolution six.6. GET A BETTER EDUCATION OR LEARN SOMETHING NEW: Many schools have issued postcards over the years, but the National School of Meat Cutting in Toledo, Ohio has a slogan that almost guarantees employment “People must eat.” My guess is that a meat-cutting career also pays better than boxing and folding 71 million pairs of stockings. 7. WORK ON YOUR SPIRITUAL GROWTH: A circa 1908 real photo postcard shows James E. Warfield concentrating on his spiritual growth. Rally Day cards (postcards that encourage church attendance) would be an obvious choice for this resolution, but there is something about Mr. Warfield’s piety that is irresistible. Do you suppose he’s praying for a new barber?8. GET FIT – EXERCISE: This guy is no dumbbell when it comes to fitness. “Francie” seems to have this resolution well in hand. Unfortunately there is no info on this postcard that might shed some additional light on Francie’s motives. But he does have a faux leopard-skin exercise suit to die for!9. TAKE A TRIP: John DeLion and Herman Dehm billed themselves as “Trans-continental Pushmobile Tourists” on this 1912 postcard. This is probably not the kind of trip most of us have in mind, but hey, with the price of gas rising, these guys sure were ahead of their time when it comes to getting good mileage. And resolute they must be to fulfill their version of this resolution.10. SPEND MORE TIME WITH YOUR FAMILY: Walter Wellman is the artist responsible for this image of “The Whole Damm Family” They’re not just spending time as a family, they’re having a wonderful time traveling in the “Damm Family Trailer.” Even “The Damm Mut (sic)” is joining in the fun with I.B. Damm, Helen Damm, May B. Damm, and Will B. Damm. The Damm (or Dam) family was a favorite of comic postcard artists for many decades. If none of these resolutions resonate with you, maybe you can resolve to organize, weed, exhibit, share or archive your postcard collection. Happy postcard collecting in 2009!
Top 10 New Year’s resolutions
December 16, 2008by Don Preziosi
New Year's resolutions are fun to illustrate - and collect - on postcards.
It is that time of the year when people make New Year’s resolutions and publications make all sorts of lists: best, worst, favorites and so on, usually consisting of ten items. Why not combine the two and explore the postcard possibilities of illustrating them? The history of New Year’s resolutions supposedly goes back to 153 B.C. when the Romans named the first month of the year after Janus, the god of beginnings and the guardian of doors and entrances. Janus was always portrayed with two faces, one on the front of his head and one on the back, which enabled him to look backward and forward at the same time. Logically, at midnight on New Year’s Eve, the Romans imagined Janus looking back at the old year and forward to the new. Whether Janus wanted to lose weight and quit smoking is not known!In addition to losing weight and quitting smoking, certain resolutions are on many of the ten favorite resolution lists that I consulted. Quitting drinking, getting out of debt, getting fit, and getting a new job are also perennial favorites. Here’s my somewhat cynical take on ten popular resolutions and postcards of various genres and eras that might be used to illustrate them.1. LOSE WEIGHT: This is the “biggie,” especially since New Year’s Eve is the culmination of the overindulgent holiday season. There is no shortage of postcards showing rather large people that could be used for this resolution. The calorically challenged lady on this Argentinean postcard seems to have somewhat unrealistic expectations. The odds are that she, like most of us, will need to repeat this resolution annually. Time to seriously consider salads, sweetie!2. QUIT SMOKING: One would think by now that all the negative publicity about smoking would have eliminated this as one of the most popular resolutions because fewer and fewer people seem to be smokers. Not so – it is still way up on the list of most common resolutions. So if you’re still smoking, take a look at the billboard on this card! “TOBACCO – The deadly enemy of the human brain. The foe of human progress. The subtle destroyer of youthfull (sic) virtue. The menace of the Christian church. The universal fire hazard.” I could have chosen a postcard I have showing the diseased lung of an ex-smoker (ex as in expired), but I thought I would spare you.3. QUIT DRINKING: As the man at the bar on this 1950s comic postcard advises his fellow imbiber, “It’s easy to quit drinking – I’ve done it hundreds of times!” This is another topic with an abundance of postcard possibilities. The drunk is always good for a laugh. I suspect that if quitting drinking is high on your list and you are like this guy, a good rehab facility and/or Alcoholics Anonymous may have a more lasting effect than the typical resolution. Here’s to your health.4. GET OUT OF DEBT: If you’re like the cowering chap on this circa 1905 comic postcard, the person approaching you with his hand held out is looking for the “green” you owe him, not a greeting. Debt can be debilitating. Low on dough? Start singing. “I owe, I owe, it’s off to work we go.” Maybe resolution number five should be higher on your list.5. GET A NEW JOB: Do you want to end up like the two elderly sisters on this circa 1910 real photo postcard who are folding and boxing Grace-Mae hosiery? During their 54 years of service in this mill they have boxed and folded 71,280,000 pairs of stockings. If not, check out resolution six.6. GET A BETTER EDUCATION OR LEARN SOMETHING NEW: Many schools have issued postcards over the years, but the National School of Meat Cutting in Toledo, Ohio has a slogan that almost guarantees employment “People must eat.” My guess is that a meat-cutting career also pays better than boxing and folding 71 million pairs of stockings. 7. WORK ON YOUR SPIRITUAL GROWTH: A circa 1908 real photo postcard shows James E. Warfield concentrating on his spiritual growth. Rally Day cards (postcards that encourage church attendance) would be an obvious choice for this resolution, but there is something about Mr. Warfield’s piety that is irresistible. Do you suppose he’s praying for a new barber?8. GET FIT – EXERCISE: This guy is no dumbbell when it comes to fitness. “Francie” seems to have this resolution well in hand. Unfortunately there is no info on this postcard that might shed some additional light on Francie’s motives. But he does have a faux leopard-skin exercise suit to die for!9. TAKE A TRIP: John DeLion and Herman Dehm billed themselves as “Trans-continental Pushmobile Tourists” on this 1912 postcard. This is probably not the kind of trip most of us have in mind, but hey, with the price of gas rising, these guys sure were ahead of their time when it comes to getting good mileage. And resolute they must be to fulfill their version of this resolution.10. SPEND MORE TIME WITH YOUR FAMILY: Walter Wellman is the artist responsible for this image of “The Whole Damm Family” They’re not just spending time as a family, they’re having a wonderful time traveling in the “Damm Family Trailer.” Even “The Damm Mut (sic)” is joining in the fun with I.B. Damm, Helen Damm, May B. Damm, and Will B. Damm. The Damm (or Dam) family was a favorite of comic postcard artists for many decades. If none of these resolutions resonate with you, maybe you can resolve to organize, weed, exhibit, share or archive your postcard collection. Happy postcard collecting in 2009!
Wednesday, December 24, 2008
Caring for your Vintage & Antique Linens & Textiles
Caring For Your Vintage and Antique Linens and Textiles—Part One
Removing Stains and Washing Textiles and Linens
The one question that I get asked over and over whenever I’m doing a show is: “How do you get your linens so clean?” The answer is not very exotic: A lot of soaking and patience! Antique and vintage linens require gentle care, but in most cases, can be used and enjoyed for years to come.
Soaking and washing will clean most linen quite nicely. Occasionally, there will be a spot or stain that just won’t come out. In that case, all you can do is accept it as part of the piece and think of it as adding character. Often, a stain can be minimized so that it doesn’t distract from your enjoyment of the overall piece.
Antique Linen Damask Monogrammed Tablecloth or topper: A wonderful old piece of damask linen, offered for sale by Victorian House Antiques on GoAntiques. The piece is noted to be 28.5 x 34 inches, and is in good condition with only one spot. That spot might be able to be soaked out.
Cotton and linen damask tablecloths and napkins, damask and huck towels, sheets and pillowcases should be soaked in lukewarm water mixed with Biz or Oxy-Clean. Although Oxy-Clean is fairly new to the market, Biz has been around for years and is an old laundry staple. Don’t be afraid to let the items soak for hours, even days. Check the item to see if the stains are still there, mix a fresh solution and soak again. I’ve soaked items two and three times until the offending stain or spot was either gone or reduced enough that it didn’t detract from the piece.
Sears Linen and Cotton Table Cloth and Napkins 1936 Ad: A Sears ad shows damask table cloths and napkins and their prices in 1936. Antique linen can still be used today if you take care and wash carefully. The ad is courtesy of GoAntiques dealers Charles & Phyllis J. Wille.
Both Biz and Oxy-Clean are great at getting out all kinds of stains. I’ve even removed red wine stains from a tablecloth with Oxy-Clean. However, never soak any fabrics with rayon, silk, wool or metallic threads in either stain cleaner. Also, if the item has any colored embroidery on it, go cautiously. A lot of early embroidery threads were not colorfast, particularly, the reds, blues, and purples. Start with cold water and watch it. If any color appears in the water, immediately remove the items and rinse in cold water. If the water stays clear, let it go a little longer, but keep an eye on it. If after awhile, you don’t see any discoloration in the water, the thread is probably colorfast.
Carefully remove linens and textiles from water. The weight of the water can pull and stretch the fabrics or even tear them. Many old fabrics are very fragile when wet. It’s best to use an old towel as a sling to pick items out of the water. Never wring old textiles or linens. Gently roll them in an absorbent towel to remove the excess water.
Once you’re done soaking, rinse the item in water until the water is clear. Damask and linen textiles can usually be put in the washing machine in cold water on a delicate cycle. Use a mild detergent, such as Ivory. Any pieces with intricate handwork, such as drawnwork, or lace should always be gently handwashed.
Sun bleaching is another method for cleaning linens. This is a technique that dates back generations when grass fields in Europe were known as bleaching fields. I’ve never had the opportunity to try this, since my yard is full of trees with no large sunny areas. However, I’ve heard great success stories from many textile experts and collectors who have used this technique. After soaking an item, rinse and wash it, and then lay it out on green grass in the sun. This works particularly well with damask and huck tablecloths, napkins, towels and sheets. A few cautions: Colored tablecloths and linens will fade in the sun, and watch out for birds, insects and roaming neighborhood cats and dogs.
Huge Damask Huck Linen/Lace - Towel: This beautiful antique towel, made from cottage damask huck linen and adorned with hand-made lace, also listed by Victorian House Antiques on GoAntiques, is listed as in excellent condition, with a few faint spots.
Chlorine bleach should never be used except in rare instances as a last resort. Bleach is very harsh on delicate fabrics. I never soak an entire piece in bleach. On a few occasions, when all other attempts have failed, I may spot-treat a stain with bleach. Bleach pens are good for this. I’ll do this only on sturdy white fabrics, such as damask or huck. After treating the area, be sure to rinse the entire piece thoroughly. I would rather have a small spot than a hole in a nice vintage or antique textile.
Rust stains are some of the toughest to remove. Whink, a rust spot remover, often works. However, this is a strong chemical, so read the label carefully and use sparingly. A paste made from lemon juice and salt may also work. Often, rust is one of those stains that you have to learn to live with.
Once your linens are clean and fresh, hang them to dry. I don’t recommend a dryer because the high temperature can be hard on delicate or old fabrics.
Wonderful linens and textiles should be used and enjoyed. I have hand-crocheted pieces from my great-grandmother that I cherish despite a few spots and worn areas. She was a prolific crocheter and would be thrilled to know that her pieces had been passed down and were still being used and enjoyed rather than stored in a drawer. Unless it’s a rare museum piece (in which case it should probably be in a museum), don’t be afraid to display and enjoy your collection and heirlooms.
http://www.worthpoint.com/author/lynda-kolski
Removing Stains and Washing Textiles and Linens
The one question that I get asked over and over whenever I’m doing a show is: “How do you get your linens so clean?” The answer is not very exotic: A lot of soaking and patience! Antique and vintage linens require gentle care, but in most cases, can be used and enjoyed for years to come.
Soaking and washing will clean most linen quite nicely. Occasionally, there will be a spot or stain that just won’t come out. In that case, all you can do is accept it as part of the piece and think of it as adding character. Often, a stain can be minimized so that it doesn’t distract from your enjoyment of the overall piece.
Antique Linen Damask Monogrammed Tablecloth or topper: A wonderful old piece of damask linen, offered for sale by Victorian House Antiques on GoAntiques. The piece is noted to be 28.5 x 34 inches, and is in good condition with only one spot. That spot might be able to be soaked out.
Cotton and linen damask tablecloths and napkins, damask and huck towels, sheets and pillowcases should be soaked in lukewarm water mixed with Biz or Oxy-Clean. Although Oxy-Clean is fairly new to the market, Biz has been around for years and is an old laundry staple. Don’t be afraid to let the items soak for hours, even days. Check the item to see if the stains are still there, mix a fresh solution and soak again. I’ve soaked items two and three times until the offending stain or spot was either gone or reduced enough that it didn’t detract from the piece.
Sears Linen and Cotton Table Cloth and Napkins 1936 Ad: A Sears ad shows damask table cloths and napkins and their prices in 1936. Antique linen can still be used today if you take care and wash carefully. The ad is courtesy of GoAntiques dealers Charles & Phyllis J. Wille.
Both Biz and Oxy-Clean are great at getting out all kinds of stains. I’ve even removed red wine stains from a tablecloth with Oxy-Clean. However, never soak any fabrics with rayon, silk, wool or metallic threads in either stain cleaner. Also, if the item has any colored embroidery on it, go cautiously. A lot of early embroidery threads were not colorfast, particularly, the reds, blues, and purples. Start with cold water and watch it. If any color appears in the water, immediately remove the items and rinse in cold water. If the water stays clear, let it go a little longer, but keep an eye on it. If after awhile, you don’t see any discoloration in the water, the thread is probably colorfast.
Carefully remove linens and textiles from water. The weight of the water can pull and stretch the fabrics or even tear them. Many old fabrics are very fragile when wet. It’s best to use an old towel as a sling to pick items out of the water. Never wring old textiles or linens. Gently roll them in an absorbent towel to remove the excess water.
Once you’re done soaking, rinse the item in water until the water is clear. Damask and linen textiles can usually be put in the washing machine in cold water on a delicate cycle. Use a mild detergent, such as Ivory. Any pieces with intricate handwork, such as drawnwork, or lace should always be gently handwashed.
Sun bleaching is another method for cleaning linens. This is a technique that dates back generations when grass fields in Europe were known as bleaching fields. I’ve never had the opportunity to try this, since my yard is full of trees with no large sunny areas. However, I’ve heard great success stories from many textile experts and collectors who have used this technique. After soaking an item, rinse and wash it, and then lay it out on green grass in the sun. This works particularly well with damask and huck tablecloths, napkins, towels and sheets. A few cautions: Colored tablecloths and linens will fade in the sun, and watch out for birds, insects and roaming neighborhood cats and dogs.
Huge Damask Huck Linen/Lace - Towel: This beautiful antique towel, made from cottage damask huck linen and adorned with hand-made lace, also listed by Victorian House Antiques on GoAntiques, is listed as in excellent condition, with a few faint spots.
Chlorine bleach should never be used except in rare instances as a last resort. Bleach is very harsh on delicate fabrics. I never soak an entire piece in bleach. On a few occasions, when all other attempts have failed, I may spot-treat a stain with bleach. Bleach pens are good for this. I’ll do this only on sturdy white fabrics, such as damask or huck. After treating the area, be sure to rinse the entire piece thoroughly. I would rather have a small spot than a hole in a nice vintage or antique textile.
Rust stains are some of the toughest to remove. Whink, a rust spot remover, often works. However, this is a strong chemical, so read the label carefully and use sparingly. A paste made from lemon juice and salt may also work. Often, rust is one of those stains that you have to learn to live with.
Once your linens are clean and fresh, hang them to dry. I don’t recommend a dryer because the high temperature can be hard on delicate or old fabrics.
Wonderful linens and textiles should be used and enjoyed. I have hand-crocheted pieces from my great-grandmother that I cherish despite a few spots and worn areas. She was a prolific crocheter and would be thrilled to know that her pieces had been passed down and were still being used and enjoyed rather than stored in a drawer. Unless it’s a rare museum piece (in which case it should probably be in a museum), don’t be afraid to display and enjoy your collection and heirlooms.
http://www.worthpoint.com/author/lynda-kolski
Friday, December 12, 2008
Good advice from a leading expert – caring for fine antique furniture
Good advice from a leading expert – caring for fine antique furniture
December 10, 2008
If you have the good fortune to own fine antique furniture, you have a responsibility to preserve it for future generations. Mary Helen McCoy, founder and president of Mary Helen McCoy Fine Antiques, a director of The Art and Antiques Dealers League of America and one of only 15 U.S. dealers to be a member of the prestigious Syndicat National des Antiquaires, offers these tips for caring for antique furniture: WoodMost furniture has a coating which protects it from use, moderates the interaction of moisture with the wood and provides a pleasing appearance. Many furniture pieces have a wax coating, which requires occasional maintenance by a professional. When hiring a furniture conservator or professional restorer, always check references first. If maintaining a wax coating yourself, apply a good beeswax-based polish with a soft cloth that will not scratch the furniture. Polish sparingly and preferably leave on overnight before rubbing well. Twice a year is about enough. Regular dusting with a soft cloth is all that is needed in between. If the furniture has a hard coating, it should be cleaned with a damp cloth, followed immediately with a dry cloth. Never use spray polishes as they may contain silicone and other materials, which contaminate the surface and can lead to a sticky surface.If a piece requires conservation, hire a qualified professional in your area. To find suggestions, consult The American Institute for Conservation Web site, http://aic.stanford.edu.Wood is a complex organic substance responsive to changes in temperature and relative humidity. A practical maintenance goal is to keep temperatures at 60-70 degrees F with a relative humidity level at 45 to 55 percent. Regular use of a good humidifier in winter and an air conditioner in summer will protect furniture from extreme fluctuations. Use window coverings to protect wood furnishings from the damaging effects of too much sunlight, which over time may result in uneven fading.MarquetryMarquetry pieces should be checked for the stability of the veneer especially in winter when the air is dry, as changes in climate or humidity can affect these pieces. Try to maintain a proper interior climate if you have pieces such as these. If the veneer is loose, proper care should be taken to secure the veneer using the correct glues recommended by a professional. Many surfaces can be French-polished in the traditional 18th-century manner. Do keep these pieces away from heating vents and direct sunlight. Dust carefully with a soft cotton cloth. A little dust will not hurt the furniture, so you do not have to dust all the time. Leave polishing of marquetry to a qualified professional.BronzesIt is best to seek the advice of a furniture conservator or professional restorer to the cleaning of bronzes. Household cleaners can inadvertently damage the patina on them. SeatingSeating furniture can last many years if properly restored by a qualified professional. This should include taking the chair or sofa apart and reassembling using pegs and glue that would have been appropriate. The upholsterer should then remake the proper seats and backs as would have been done before. Webbing should be used on the bottom. Tacks were often used on seat furniture, which may cause the rails to be brittle. The restorer or the upholsterer may have to strengthen the wood in order to use nailheads again.Gilding and paintUnfortunately there is not much of the original gilding or painting left on much of the furniture we see today. Many of the natural carved wood Parisian pieces on the market today may have been painted or gilded when they were first conceived. Among those pieces are chairs, canapés and consoles. To restore these pieces consult a qualified conservator.DrawersThere are always problems with drawers and it is perfectly fine to repair them so they operate. However, a furniture conservator or professional restorer should do the work to keep the drawer as original as possible.Cast metal feet (sabots) and furniture legsIf a sabot is missing from a piece of furniture you should have the replacement match what was on the piece originally. Broken legs can be repaired properly as well by a good restorer or conservator.As time goes by, more and more furniture will need restoration to keep it alive and well. “Furniture should always be maintained and conserved, not over-restored or embellished. We are stewards of these pieces for a short while and we should enjoy and respect each piece.Mary Helen McCoy Fine Antiques exhibits in prominent, national and international fine art and antique fairs. The firm is one of only 15 dealers in the United States to be a member of the prestigious Syndicat National des Antiquaires (SNA). It is also a member of the esteemed Confédération Internationale des Négociants en Oeuvres d’Art (CINOA) and The Art and Antique Dealers League of America for which McCoy serves on the board of directors; she also serves on the board of trustees for the Birmingham Museum of Art.Mary Helen McCoy Fine Antiques is located at 120 King Street in Charleston, S.C., and is open Monday to Saturday, 10 a.m.-6 p.m. For more information, call 843-577-6445, fax 843-577-6447, e-mail MHMcAntq@aol.com or visit www.maryhelenmccoy.com.
December 10, 2008
If you have the good fortune to own fine antique furniture, you have a responsibility to preserve it for future generations. Mary Helen McCoy, founder and president of Mary Helen McCoy Fine Antiques, a director of The Art and Antiques Dealers League of America and one of only 15 U.S. dealers to be a member of the prestigious Syndicat National des Antiquaires, offers these tips for caring for antique furniture: WoodMost furniture has a coating which protects it from use, moderates the interaction of moisture with the wood and provides a pleasing appearance. Many furniture pieces have a wax coating, which requires occasional maintenance by a professional. When hiring a furniture conservator or professional restorer, always check references first. If maintaining a wax coating yourself, apply a good beeswax-based polish with a soft cloth that will not scratch the furniture. Polish sparingly and preferably leave on overnight before rubbing well. Twice a year is about enough. Regular dusting with a soft cloth is all that is needed in between. If the furniture has a hard coating, it should be cleaned with a damp cloth, followed immediately with a dry cloth. Never use spray polishes as they may contain silicone and other materials, which contaminate the surface and can lead to a sticky surface.If a piece requires conservation, hire a qualified professional in your area. To find suggestions, consult The American Institute for Conservation Web site, http://aic.stanford.edu.Wood is a complex organic substance responsive to changes in temperature and relative humidity. A practical maintenance goal is to keep temperatures at 60-70 degrees F with a relative humidity level at 45 to 55 percent. Regular use of a good humidifier in winter and an air conditioner in summer will protect furniture from extreme fluctuations. Use window coverings to protect wood furnishings from the damaging effects of too much sunlight, which over time may result in uneven fading.MarquetryMarquetry pieces should be checked for the stability of the veneer especially in winter when the air is dry, as changes in climate or humidity can affect these pieces. Try to maintain a proper interior climate if you have pieces such as these. If the veneer is loose, proper care should be taken to secure the veneer using the correct glues recommended by a professional. Many surfaces can be French-polished in the traditional 18th-century manner. Do keep these pieces away from heating vents and direct sunlight. Dust carefully with a soft cotton cloth. A little dust will not hurt the furniture, so you do not have to dust all the time. Leave polishing of marquetry to a qualified professional.BronzesIt is best to seek the advice of a furniture conservator or professional restorer to the cleaning of bronzes. Household cleaners can inadvertently damage the patina on them. SeatingSeating furniture can last many years if properly restored by a qualified professional. This should include taking the chair or sofa apart and reassembling using pegs and glue that would have been appropriate. The upholsterer should then remake the proper seats and backs as would have been done before. Webbing should be used on the bottom. Tacks were often used on seat furniture, which may cause the rails to be brittle. The restorer or the upholsterer may have to strengthen the wood in order to use nailheads again.Gilding and paintUnfortunately there is not much of the original gilding or painting left on much of the furniture we see today. Many of the natural carved wood Parisian pieces on the market today may have been painted or gilded when they were first conceived. Among those pieces are chairs, canapés and consoles. To restore these pieces consult a qualified conservator.DrawersThere are always problems with drawers and it is perfectly fine to repair them so they operate. However, a furniture conservator or professional restorer should do the work to keep the drawer as original as possible.Cast metal feet (sabots) and furniture legsIf a sabot is missing from a piece of furniture you should have the replacement match what was on the piece originally. Broken legs can be repaired properly as well by a good restorer or conservator.As time goes by, more and more furniture will need restoration to keep it alive and well. “Furniture should always be maintained and conserved, not over-restored or embellished. We are stewards of these pieces for a short while and we should enjoy and respect each piece.Mary Helen McCoy Fine Antiques exhibits in prominent, national and international fine art and antique fairs. The firm is one of only 15 dealers in the United States to be a member of the prestigious Syndicat National des Antiquaires (SNA). It is also a member of the esteemed Confédération Internationale des Négociants en Oeuvres d’Art (CINOA) and The Art and Antique Dealers League of America for which McCoy serves on the board of directors; she also serves on the board of trustees for the Birmingham Museum of Art.Mary Helen McCoy Fine Antiques is located at 120 King Street in Charleston, S.C., and is open Monday to Saturday, 10 a.m.-6 p.m. For more information, call 843-577-6445, fax 843-577-6447, e-mail MHMcAntq@aol.com or visit www.maryhelenmccoy.com.
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